S14 5 Speed Swap

List of parts needed for 5-Speed swap:

Factory Service Manual

Manual Transmission


Release Bearing

Pressure plate


Flywheel from a m/t

M/T Mounting plate

Flywheel Bolts (m/t bolts are longer than a/t bolts)

Clutch pedal

Brake pedal (From M/T car)

Clutch master cylinder w/ resevoir

Clutch slave cylinder

Clutch hydraulic lines (Main line, bleeder line, rubber line to slave cylinder)

Drive shaft front & rear section

Adapter bolts & nuts for mounting crossmember to the 5 speed (2)

Reverse light sensor,  Neutral position sensor, 5th gear sensor (on side of 5 speed)

Lower shift boot & plate

Upper Shift boot & Finisher plate.


As always, take all necessary safety precautions, make sure the car is safely supported on a lift or on jack stands.

1) Remove Driveshaft (Propeller) It may be easier to remove the cat-back exhaust before you remove the driveshaft.  Remove the 4 14mm bolts on the rear connection to the differential. Drop the rear of the shaft down. Remove the chassis support bracket that connects the two halves of the floor pan.  Remove the center driveshaft support bolts (2) 17mm.  Pull the driveshaft out of the transmission.
2) Drain ATF ftom Transmission Drain fliud from drain plug
3) Remove Transmission cooling lines 1 line on each side of the transmission, remove the bolts, move the lines as much out of the way as you can.
4) Remove all wiring from the trans Disconnect the wiring to the speed sensor and the OBD-II flywheel rotation sensor.  Disconnect the wires which connect to the A/T from next to the fuse box under the hood (4 connections).
5) Disconnect second O2 sensor and remove the sensor. 3 wire connection, apply anti-sieze to the threads when you re-install.
6) Remove exhaust bracket Off the back of the transmission crossmember there is a mount for the catylitic converter. (4) 12mm nuts, remove this bracket completely.
7) Remove the crossmember, Linkage, and Interior pieces. Support the rear of the trans, remove the 4 bolts (17mm?) that secure the crossmember to the body of the car.   Remove the cotter pin on the transmission linkage, remove the shifter from the linkage.  Remove the finisher plate in the console.  Remove the console.   Unscrew the shift lever (2 Phillips).  Disconnect the brake interlock soleniod, and cable. Remove the metal cover plate and seal (4 10mm screws).  Lower the rear of the transmission for access to the bellhousing bolts.
8) Remove Starter Remove the two bolts that mount the starter to the bellhousing. (14mm)
9) Remove the Engine/Transmission Braces Remove the 4 bolts on each brace, and remove the braces.
10) Remove transmission Remove the remaining bellhousing bolts, remove dust shield to remove torque converter bolts. Rotate the flywheel and remove each torque converter bolt. Nissan put a nice slot to pry from to turn the flywheel, as well as a spot to put a screwdriver to hold the flywheel while unbolting the torque converter bolts. Support transmission on jack. Slide the transmission straight back.
11) Remove Flywheel Remove 6 bolts (19mm) holding flywheel to the crankshaft.
12) Remove A/T adapter bearing This bearing sticks out past the end of the crankshaft. I used an air chisel from 3 sides to drive the bearing out.
13) Install Pilot bearing Install new pilot bearing for the M/T in the crank. I used a deep-well socket to tap the bearing in. There may be some rust inside the bore for this bearing in the end of the crankshaft, I had to run some sandpaper in there to remove the rust so the bearing could be tapped in.
14) Install Mounting Plate Install the M/T mounting plate on the Bellhousing.  Line it up with the dowels.
15) Install Flywheel On the M/T cars, there is a brass alignment pin which only allows the flywheel to be installed one way, find the hole in the crank and line it up with the hole in the flywheel.  This is not a doweled fit, just a pin that was used to make sure the flywheel was placed on correctly.   I believe it is for the magnets for the rotation sensor (OBD-II). Torque the 6 bolts as per the Manual. (19mm)
16) Install Clutch, Pressure plate, & Release bearing Install the clutch alignment tool, Slide your clutch on flywheel side to flywheel side (the clutch should be marked). Install the pressure plate on the 3 dowels, and tighten it down. Remove the alignment tool. Drive the release bearing off the bearing retainer. Install new release bearing. Reinstall lever arm & springs.
17) Remove Brake pedal Remove the 4 nuts that secure the brake pedal assembly, and the wiring to the switches on the brake pedal.   Remove the Clevis pin that attaches the pedal to the master cylinder. Under the hood, it is necessary to pull the master cylinder out so the studs clear the firewall, as well as the actuator for the master cylinder. Now you should be able ot get the brake pedal assembly removed.
18) Install Clutch Master Cylinder & pedal Remove the A/T controller, and brake interlock relay.  Pull back the carpet, find the rubber mat and remove the cutout for the master cylinder to go through.  There will be no hole through the metal, you will see the mounting locations from inside the car only (this looks like they just used a different firewall for the outside with no holes on the outside panel. - 2 holes for studs, 1 hole for master cylinder).  Drill two holes for the studs, then drill a hole right in the center for the master cylinder to guide either a hole saw or a Greenlee hole punch. Measure your master cylinder for the correct size. Mount the master cylinder to the pedal assembly.
19) Install Brake Pedal Once you have removed the larger brake pedal, installing the smaller pedal is straight forward.
20) Install all Hydraulic lines, Bleeder Assembly, & Slave Cyl. Metal line from master cylinder across the engine bay along the top of the fire wall and down with the rest of the brake lines down to the bleeder tube assembly mounted to the inside of the passenger side "frame rail".  Install the bracket for the rubber line which goes from the metal line to the slave cylinder.
21) Install Transmission Remove the shifter from the transmission - Remove rubber boot, there is a snap ring that holds the shifter in place.  Make sure all sensors are installed in the transmission at this point.   Speed Sensor, Rotation sensor, Reverse light switch, Neutral position switch, 5th gear sensor.  Jack the front of the motor up to tip it on an angle. I found it easiest to have two people on this part, one in the front and one on the tail shaft.   Lift the transmission up and turn it so the bump in the bellhousing for the starter is pointing towards the ground. Get the input shaft lined up and slide the transmission in. Rotate the transmission into position and fasten one bolt to hold it. Support the tailshaft. Put in the rest of the bolts and nuts which mount the transmission.  Hook up the Slave cylinder.
22) Bleed the hydraulic lines Watch the fluid level in the resevoir, it drops fast when bleeding the clutch lines. Bleed the slave cylinder first then the bleeder lines.
23) Install Driveshaft & Shifter. Slide the front half of the driveshaft on the output shaft of the transmission. Bolt up the center coupling to the body 2-17mm.  Bolt up the 4 bolts that secure the drive shaft to the differential. Make sure the yellow line on the driveshaft aligns with the yellow line on the differential. Install the body floor pan brace.  Put in the correct amount of 75W-90 GL through the shifter hole (2.5L I believe).  Install the shifter (Snap ring), rubber boot, upper rubber boot & plate.  Install console, and finisher plate with the upper leather shift boot. Install shift knob.
24) Backup Lights & Starting system The top connector with two female blade connections needs to be jumpered for the car to start.  The third connector down from the top uses pins 3 & 8 for the backup lights.  Switch pins 3&8 using the wiring from the backup light switch on the transmission.