To begin this process, it should be stated that the items installed in this scenario
consist of 1.75 Intrax lowering springs and Tokico shocks/struts.
Note: Installation may differ between different brands of equipment.
After acquiring the desired springs and shocks/struts, it is suggested the shock boots (on the front and rear) be replaced to ensure the life of the equipment.
1. To begin this procedure it is easiest done on a spider lift, but jack stands will do (be careful).
2. Remove all wheels from the car.
3. Use some white out and mark the top of the camber plate (this is so the direction of the camber plate will be reinstalled in the proper direction).
4. Loosen the three nuts on top of the front struts under the hood (left and right side), but do not remove.
5. Remove the two nuts and bolts that attach the strut assembly to the caliper assembly.
6. Remove the retaining clip attached to the brake line that holds the brake line on the strut bracket
7. Once the two nuts and bolts that attach the strut assembly to the caliper assembly are removed, the three nuts on top of the struts (left and right side) can be removed. At this time removal of the entire strut assembly will have the spring attached to it.
8. The same procedure is done for the other side to remove the shocks/struts and springs.
9. With both of the front struts and springs assembly's removed it is then necessary to remove the spring from the strut by the means of a spring compressor.
** DO NOT LOOSEN THE NUT DIRECTLY ABOVE THE SPRING, WHICH IS ON THE TOP OF THE PISTON SHAFT, UNTIL THE SPRING IS COMPRESSED BY THE COMPRESSION TOOL!!!
** FAILURE TO FOLLOW PROCEEDURES WILL RESULT IN INJURIES!!
10. When using a spring compressor be sure to adhere by the directions that are supplied with the tool. Reason being that there are many different types of spring compression tool that can be used.
11. Once the spring is compressed enough that it is not applying any pressure to the top camber plate, it is then necessary to remove the nut on top of the piston shaft, which will free the camber plate.
12. Then following the directions of your compression tool, loosen the compressor slowly and evenly.
13. At this time, you should have both the springs separated from both the struts.
14. Place new dust boot (if necessary) over the shaft of the piston
15. At this time you must remove the plastic coatings from the ends of the old OEM springs and place them on the new springs in the same manner you found them.
16. Place the spring onto the strut, and slowly rotate until the proper seat is made.
17. Then place the camber plate on top of the spring. At this time it may be possible to push down on the camber plate enough to allow room to thread the nut on the top of the strut. If not, it will again be necessary to use the spring compression tool to allow the camber plate enough room to clear the threads on the piston shaft.
18. At this time you should have a strut with the spring on it, being compressed by the camber plate with the nut on top of the piston shaft tightened.
19. Then place the strut and spring assembly into the original location with the "white-out" in the same direction it was in when you previously marked it.
20. Replace the three nuts on top of the camber plate, which are on the top of the shock wells, under the hood. This will hold the strut in place until the two lower nuts and bolts are inserted and tightened.
21. Now place the brake line into the bracket and replace the retainer clip to hold the brake line securely in place.
22. Tighten the three nuts under the hood that are on the top of the strut assembly.
23. At this time the other side should be done the same way, and the front will be complete.
24. Beginning on the rear shocks, it is necessary to remove the knock out plates in the trunk that cover up the top of the shocks.
25. Then remove the rubber cover that protects the top of the shock threads. There should be two nuts her that need to be removed.
26. Now loosen the one bottom remaining nut that is holding the shock in place. Once this nut is removed the shock should be free.
27. Here again the spring compressor should be used to compress the spring so that
there is no pressure =on the top plate of the assembly.
28. Once the pressure is released from the top plate, loosen the not on top of the piston shaft (A similar procedure to the front assembly)
29. Now that the nut is removed, slowly and carefully loosen the spring compressor (evenly) until the spring is free.
30. With the spring off reuse the rubber covers off of the OE springs and place onto the new springs in the same place. This should help to eliminate excessive noise within the spring seating.
31. Now with the new shock, slide the new dust boot over the piston shaft and set into its proper place.
32. Now the new spring (with the rubber covers) is slid down the shaft and seated into its proper place.
33. At this time, the top plate needs to be replaced and the nut is threaded onto the shaft. (However, it may be possible to manually press down on the plate to obtain sufficient threads.
34. If the plate can't be manually pressed, reattach the spring compressor and compress the spring until there is enough clearance that the threads can be seen and the nut is tightened.
35. At this point, the shock should be assembled with the spring properly attached.
36. Now the shock must be replaced by installing the top part of the shock first. This will allow the shock to have the two nuts replaced once it is in place.
37. Now the bottom of the shock needs to be connected. (Most times the shock seems longer and is more difficult to replace by hand, so it is easiest if a floor jack is placed under the shock to raise it so the bottom will be level with the shaft where it is being installed.)
38. With both shocks in stalled, the boots need to be replaced over the top of the shock (located inside the trunk)
39. Now replace the wheels and safely lower the car from it's stationary position and remember to have a 4-wheel alignment for proper wear of the tires.
40. PUT AWAY TOOLs , and have fun
*These instructions were told by Kyle Bennett.
**The sizes of the nuts and bolts were not given because I do not have a
service manual and it was written on the basis of memory.
Tips if trouble getting the new rear shocks on the mounting post.
When installing new rear shocks just use a 2x4 to pry down on the suspension with one hand and slip on the shock bottom with the other hand. Very easy.
Email: [email protected]
Last weekend I managed to self-install tokico shocks and intrax springs on my '90. Kyle Bennet's instructions were a great help. Thanks buddy! although i'd still like to add some tips to further assist 240 fans.
Three things i'd like to add to the install procedure
1-make sure you replace the camber plates while you've got the shocks off the car. in my case they were causing a sqeaky sound whenever i turned the wheel at parking lot speeds.
2-get a torque wrench with a 17mm socket handy. the nut holding the bottom of the strut doesn't want to loosen.
3-i'd suggest you buy some pliers that lock up(sorry dont know the name) to remove the nut on top of the rear struts. regular pliers wont do the job, cuz the whole piston shaft rotates within the shock body as you try to losen the nut.
*getting the bottom of the shocks back(front or rear) was a breeze. get a friend to hammer it in froom under
while you press the brake assembly down.
Name: Nabil Jamali
Email: [email protected]
Eibach spring rates for S13
The Eibach spring rates are 114/200 front and 114/148 rear for the Pro-Kit.The spring rates for the Sportlines are 137/230 front and 128/200 rear.All rates are in lbs/inch and are progressive. The stock rates are 114 lbs/inch.
Name: Jared Topilko
Email: [email protected]