Q: I have a 1989 Nissan 240SX SE hatchback with 120,000 miles on it and I was curious
what the concensus is on timing belt replacement?
A: First off, it's a chain, not a belt, so it's not a wear item.
Q: I have had some mechanics tell me that I don't need to worry about it as long as I
haven't been "abusive" to the engine. And I have had others tell me that you
should just have it done at 60 or 80k. So I have three questions:
Q: 1) is the '89 240SX SE an 'interference' engine (timing belt goes, valves and pistons
crash catostrophically) or not?
A: Yes. If your chain breaks (never happens) or starts jumping teeth on the gears (more on
this later) it can munch the valves.
Q: 2) what is the recommended replacement interval?
A: Doesn't apply.
Q: 3) what is the going rate for such a repair?
A: It typically costs $500-$700 to have the chain, sprockets, tensioner, chain guides, and
front-cover seals replaced.
Q: PS- also do I have a chain or belt? and does it make that significant a difference in
change intervals, cost etc?
A: There's a technical service bulletin out for most of the 240SXs (can't remember the
years, but yours is *definitely* one of them) which recommends replacement of the chain
guides and chain tensioner.
Here's what I told Tony, the other guy who asked about this today:
> Tony Iannarelli wrote:
> >
> > What are the symptoms of the Timing Chain going bad?
>
> Well, it's not so much that the chain goes bad, but the tensioner
> gets weak and the guides break into little bits. This is a Nissan
> technical service bulletin, which means it's a known problem and
> there are upgraded parts available to correct it, but it's not a
> recall, so you have to pay to have it done.
>
> The usual symptoms are that the engine rattles like hell when you
> first start it (chain flapping around) and lacks power (slack chain
> causing camshaft timing to drift around unpredictably).
>
> It's a 10-12 hour job for your typical do-it-yourselfer, but it's one
> of the more annoying jobs I've done on my car. If you can afford it,
> I would advise you to have a shop do it -- and the independent shops
> do just as good a job as the dealerships, for less money.
>
> You can even order the parts at discount from Brown & Brown Nissan
> of Arizona -- http://www.brownandbrown.com, or via their 800-number
> in the back of Car and Driver or other car mags.
Hope this helps.
-Trevor
Q> Does a 1993 240sx se have a timing chain or is it a belt???
A> It's all chains. All KA24E/DE have timing chains along w/ SR20DE. Belts are found on the VQ/VG engines.
tyyap
$5 solution to the DOHC chain rattle problem
I found a $5 solution to the chain rattle problem!!!! Well, at least *our* chain rattle
problem.
Background: We got a DOHC engine with 53k miles on it from a junkyard, where it had been
sitting on the rack for about 1 year or so. It had the nasty chain rattle problem that was
always present not matter if the engine was hot or cold.
The problem that I found was the tensioner was *frozen* and was not fully extending and
keeping tension on the chain. The burnt on oil/sludge gunk was keeping the tensioner from
moving freely in the bore. Here's a quick rundown on how to fix this problem. Of course,
if your chain is stretched and the guides are worn, this won't help you.
Tools needed: 10 and 12 mm wrenches, long screwdriver, timing light (very helpfull, but
not totally necessary), tube of RTV, WD-40. A big socket to fit the front crank bolt is
also helpfull but not required.
1. Put the engine at TDC (with #1 cylinder firing) because you'll be pulling the
distributor out and you don't want to play guessing games on how to put it back in. Pull
the cap from the distributor and make a note of where the rotor is pointing. Also make a
scribe mark on where the distributor is adjusted so you can get the timing real close when
you restart the car. If you don't have a socket to fit the front crank bolt to turn the
engine, put the car in 4th gear (sorry slushers), and roll it back and forth until the
engine is at TDC.
2. Remove the valve cover. You may need to remove the fan, depending on the amount of room
you need. Remove the 3 small bolts (10mm head) holding the upper timing cover the lower
cover. Remove the other 5 or 6 bolts (12mm). Carefully remove the top cover. If it doesn't
just pop off, make sure all of the bolts are removed, otherwise you'll crack something!!!!
3. With the top timing cover removed, you can now access the top tensioner and the
bottom tensioner. If found that both were a bit sticky, with the bottom one being the
worst. It was jammed inside the bore and wasn't moving at all. As a result, the chain was
just flapping in the wind.
4. Use a flat bladed screwdriver or other instrument of choice, to pop the tensioner out
against the chain. Then, push it back into the tensioner housing until it bottoms. When
you let go of the tensioner, it should pop back out and put full tension on the chain. If
it doesn't pop it back out. Push in, pop out, push in, pop out, etc.... Do this until the
tensioner is moving freely. I used a bit of penetrating oil (rusted bolt remover), to help
disolve the gunk and get things moving freely. Check both tensioners.
5. Clean the cover, removing all of the RTV sealant. Clean the other mating surface and
put the cover back on with new RTV. Replace the valve cover. Put the distributor
back in, making sure it lined up as before. Fire it up,check the distributor timing, and
enjoy the silence.
Notes:
Take a look at the guides while you're in there. Look for grooving and wear.
The little swinging latch on the tensioner is for holding the tensioner when you change
the chain. Just ignore it and let it hang down.
When you're putting the bolts back into the front cover, go easy on the tightening. They
are threading into aluminum and they are pretty easy to strip.
If the car won't start or runs like crap, put the engine back at TDC (with #1 cylinder
firing) and double check that you got the distributor back in right.
When you're poking around at the tensioner and cleaning off the old RTV, make sure not to
drop goobers (bits of RTV and gasket material) down the front cover.
-----------------------------------------------------------
| Dave Balingit - Data Tech Racing
| 240SX NASA Pacific Coast Touring Car
| Nissan/Infiniti Speedvision Cup Car
| [email protected] : [email protected]
| http://www.garlic.com/~datatech
Timing chain rattle
I was told by some that a rattling noise from the engine could mean the timing chain
needed to be replaced. I found that might be true sometimes but I think the real thing
that makes the timing chain rattle is simply a metal plate that runs across the two cams.
When talking to a mechanic he said the dealerships solution for fixing the rattling
sounds were to simply remove the metal plate. To do this all you need to do is take off
the valve cover and remove the two bolts holding it in. Hope this makes someone happy.
Simon
Email: [email protected]
Timing Chain Part Numbers for SOHC:
To you who are interested, I called up NissanAutoParts.com and put in a quote for the
necessary stuff to change a timing chain. Here it is:
NissanAutoParts.com QUOTE!!!
-------------------------------------------------------
(1) Qnty: 1 Part#: 13028-8B000 ---->Total Price: 30.60
Description: chain
(2) Qnty: 1 Part#: 13070-40f06 ---->Total Price: 17.26
Description: tensioner
(3) Qnty: 1 Part#: 13085-40F10 ---->Total Price: 7.13
Description: slackl side guide
(4) Qnty: 1 Part#: 13075-40F10 ---->Total Price: 1.46ea
Description: bolt for s guide
(5) Qnty: 1 Part#: 13091-40F15 ---->Total Price: 7.26
Description: tension side guide
(6) Qnty: 1 Part#: 13510-53F10 ---->Total Price: 4.82
Description: frt crank seal
(7) Qnty: 1 Part#: 15066-5E500 ---->Total Price: 3.34
Description: frt cover seal
+ Shipping & Handling:
-----------------------------------
=======>TOTAL: $71.87 USD
-----------------------------------
I don't think that's too bad myself!
Brent Lykins
[email protected]
Timing Chain Rubbing Against Valve Cover!
Solution:
I just recently brought my '92 SE into the local dealership for some warranty work -
Timing Chain making a strange rubbing sound but not quite a rattle, as well as replacing
the tranmission seals for major leaks. I was surprised that the chain has no exact
replacement "time frame". The people at the Nissan dealership basically said
that it is not considered a wear item and that the chain is only replaced if it
actually is damaged itself! They then explained that the cause of the sound was the main
guide on the top of the timing chain - A part that has been deleted from the Nissan
inventory! It has been recommended that this part is nolonger necessary and should
simply be removed. With the guide gone the chain no longer makes any "strange"
noises. Also, my terrible warranty people initially denied to pay for the guide's removal
but when I demanded that Nissan provide them with the documentation indicating that this
was a part no longer needed but not a recall they immediately ! reviewed my case and are
going to reimburse me for that "repair". Once I get a scanner I post up that
Documentation. This only applies to the DOHC 240's.
Steve
Email: [email protected]